Bangkok’s Green Lung: Exploring Bang Kachao

Bang Kachao — Bangkok’s Green Lung — might be the perfect day trip to escape the hustle of the city. It’s basically in Bangkok but it feels worlds away because of all the trees and lack of development.

Go during the week to avoid any crowds, or on the weekend to see a nice market. You’ll want to go early, especially in the hot season. Check out our video, and read on for everything you need to know to visit on your own, or find a great tour to join.

There are also some wonderful hotels in the Green Lung and staying out there for a night or two is a really nice way to experience this unique area of Bangkok. We list our favorite below.

About Bang Kachao, aka Phrapadaeng, aka Bangkok’s Green Lung

The Green Lung is not technically in Bangkok, it’s in Samut Prakan Province. It is, however, in the Bangkok Metropolitan Area which includes parts of five of the city’s surrounding provinces. The area is a peninsula formed by a sweeping bend in the Chao Phraya River that nearly circles around and runs back into itself. The land inside of this is shaped somewhat like a lung, and if you look at it from above it is mostly green, hence the name.

In this screenshot from Google Maps, it’s easy to see where the name comes from

The reason the area is so green and undeveloped is that strict conservation laws prohibit buildings higher than the treetops. These laws keep the area mostly residential and agricultural which also means the area doesn’t need many large roads.

How to get to Bangkok’s Green Lung

The quickest way to get there is to take the MRT (subway) to Khlong Toei Station, then get a taxi to Khlong Toei Port (ท่าเรือคลองเตย – Tah Reua Khlong Toei). It should only cost around 50 baht on the meter. Get out at the 7-Eleven at this Google Maps location just before you reach the gates that let the trucks into the port. Facing those gates, turn right and head down a small street. You’ll see a temple ahead of you, and after a minute or so you’ll reach a pier at the river. The fare is 20 Baht one way. They’ll try to sell you a 40 Baht return ticket which is fine, just don’t lose the ticket for your way back.

Renting a bicycle

Once across the river, you can rent a bicycle at M Bike for 80-100 Baht for the day, and that should include a lock, a bottle of water and a map. These bikes are fairly cheap and rickety, but are generally fine. Do a basic check of the brakes and tire pressure before leaving as you will ride on some elevated paths that you wouldn’t want to fall off of.

They also have nicer mountain bikes for 300 Baht, and a limited selection of children’s bikes and bikes with a child seat. Set out inland from there and you’re on your way.

What to do in Bang Kachao

The main highlight is the network of elevated walkways running past farms, orchards, homes, coffee shops, and restaurants. Get lost out here and enjoy a few of these highlights.

Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden

Your first stop should be the Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park and Botanical Garden (สวนสาธารณะและสวนพฤกษชาติ ศรีนครเขื่อนขันธ์). It’s just a few minutes in and down a road to your left. There are lots of signs pointing the way. Once inside, just pedal around the pathways and over the bridges and enjoy the wonderful pond and landscaping.

If you need a break, hang out in one of the gazebos over the water. You can buy food to feed the fish and turtles in the pond. Near the park at this location is a bird-watching tower with some nice views.

If you’re looking for a true botanical garden you might be underwhelmed, but the landscaping is nice.

Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market

Bang Nam Phueng Floating Market (ตลาดน้ำบางน้ำผึ้ง) is open Saturday and Sunday, 7 AM to 4 PM. This is not actually a floating market so much as a market set alongside a canal. Still, it’s pretty nice. The market is geared mainly towards Thais on the weekends so it’s not packed with foreign tourists like some floating markets. You’ll find fresh fruit, tasty snacks, and lots of small kitchy souveniers here.

Get lost and explore

Our favorite thing to do here is just explore and drink it all in. The map provided with the bicycle rental is pretty good and has most of the elevated walkays mapped out. These are pretty much everywhere and they form a maze of interconnected walkways. The highlight here is the local life so there is no set route you should take. Rather, just let yourself get lost for a while. If you come to a road, take it until you find another small walkway.

Along the way there are loads of good restaurants and cute coffeeshops. Some are marked on the map.

There is also a Siamese Fighting Fish Gallery. Sad-looking fish in small dirty tanks. We recommend giving this one a miss.

Best tours of Bangkok’s Green Lung

If you prefer a guided tour, we’ve rounded up some of the better-reviewed ones we could find. Stumbling on things on your own is always fun, but having a local who can explain things to you and find the highlights has its own appeal for sure.

• Colors of Bangkok Tour from Viator. A morning or afternoon half-day tour cycling the area, seeing Muay Thai training, and a riverside meal.
• A private bicycle tour with hotel pickup by car from Take Me Tour. Take Me Tour is a local company facilitating bookings for independent tour operators. We have worked with them for many years and recommend them highly.
• A bicycle tour with floating market from Take Me Tour. No hotel pickup, meet at any MRT (subway) station. As noted above the market is nice but not actually floating, and only takes place on weekends.

Staying in the Green Lung

If you want to dive deeper into exploring this area, staying one or two nights is the best way to do so. The Bangkok Tree House is a cool hotel set right along the river in the Green Lung. Staying out here makes it easy to explore the area in the early morning and evening when it’s less hot and crowded, and the lighting is best for great photos. You can also hang in your room or at the pool during the hottest part of the day before venturing back out. You can book the Bangkok Tree House on Booking.com.

Safety at Bangkok’s Green Lung

This area is quite safe as far as crime is concerned, but obviously still use some common sense. The biggest danger is falling off one of the elevated walkways. Only take a bike if you’re comfortable riding it. Make sure to get the feel for the bike you’re riding on the roads before you head onto the walkways.

Locals do drive motorbikes along these walkways, but they won’t try to pass you if it’s not safe. Instead, one of you needs to look for a place to safely pull off to let the other pass. Make an effort to not inconvenience them, but don’t put yourself in any danger either.

The main risk here is the sun. Bring a good hat and a light sunshirt, or suncream.

That’s it. Just get out there and get lost. Bangkok’s Green Lung is a great day out in this wonderful city.