Roads, rails and waterways: getting around Bangkok

Navigating Bangkok’s congested streets can be a challenge for even lifelong residents. For those who’ve only just arrived it can seem impossible. The fastest way from A to B in Bangkok is never a straight line, and reaching your destination in one piece requires creative thinking, patience, and a sense of adventure.

Having a smart phone in your pocket connected to Bangkok’s 4G or 5G can be a life saver. Google maps hasn’t quite figured out the crazy system of addresses in the city, but they’ve got most of the roads mapped out well, and most hotels, big restaurants and office buildings are searchable by name. Keeping a photo of a Train map handy in your phone is also a good idea.

Bangkok isn’t exactly known as a pedestrian-friendly city, but many areas can be walked if you can brave the heat, humidity, and often, rainstorms. But the city sprawls out over a massive area and at some point you’re sure to have a longer way to go. Bangkokians know the secret to beating the hellish traffic and that’s to avoid it entirely when possible, and that means the fastest transport of all: Trains.

Trains (รถไฟฟ้า – rot fai fah)

Bangkok’s rail network includes the BTS Skytrain; the MRT Blue, Purple, Yellow and Pink lines; the Airport Rail Link from Suvarnabhumi Airport; and the SRT Red Line, which runs through Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal. Tickets, fares and payment rules vary between systems. EMV contactless bank cards work across all four MRT lines. For the BTS, the standard options are single-journey tickets and Rabbit cards.

All of the lines are modern, clean and air conditioned to a bone-chilling temperature. Trains are the fastest way to get around the city if you’re traveling along their route. Fares vary, so check the current BTS fares, MRT ticket information or Red Line fares for the journey you plan to make.

Boats (เรือ – reua)

Bangkok was once known as the Venice of the East for the elaborate network of canals running through the city. Today, some of these are below the roads and pavements, but many remain uncovered and a few still have boats actively plying their waters. The most useful route is the Khlong Saen Saep (คลองแสนแสบ) which bisects the city running east-west.

The Chao Phraya River also has passenger boats that can get you across town much faster than the roads when the route works for you. Useful piers serve areas around Khao San Road, Chinatown, BTS and MRT stations and Asiatique, the well-known outdoor mall. Routes, running days and hours vary, so check the Chao Phraya Express Boat timetable before relying on one.

Taxis (แท็กซี่ – taek see)

It’s easy to find a taxi anywhere, anytime in Bangkok, but getting them to agree to your destination and to use the meter is another matter. Some drivers just want to rip off tourists, although the meter rates are quite low and not worth it to drivers if they know they’ll be stuck in traffic. They sometimes have to bribe police to wait in certain areas which also increases what they have to charge.

Taxis are still a good way to get around town. They are air conditioned and cheap, and provide a relaxing ride after a day of shopping or walking around. They are available when the red ว่าง (available) light in the windshield is on. These days, many people skip the hassle of hailing a taxi and use ride-hailing apps like Grab or Bolt. Check the selected service's fare terms: GrabTaxi uses the taxi meter plus a booking fee, so an app booking does not always mean a fixed fare. When one stops, open the door and agree to a destination before you get in. Whenever possible, have the name and address of your destination written in Thai, and for smaller hotels, keep the phone number handy.

Tuk-tuks (ตุ๊กตุ๊ก – dtook dtook)

The tuk-tuk is one of the iconic symbols of Bangkok, and they can be a great way to get around town. If you can break free of traffic, you can get a good breeze going inside, and it’s hard to get closer to the action on the street than from inside a tuk-tuk.

Unfortunately, too many drivers try to run scams on tourists by promising free or cheap rides, then dragging you to tailors, restaurants and gem shops which pay the driver a commission and often involve their own scams. Other drivers just try grossly overcharging. Agree the fare before you get in. If the first quote in a tourist hotspot is ridiculous, walk a couple of blocks and try again.

Motorbike taxis (มอไซต์รับจ้าง – maw sai rahp jahng)

If you need to get a short distance down a traffic clogged road in a hurry, then a motorbike taxi is your best bet. They’re not for the faint of heart though; they weave in and out of traffic like madmen, and fly down the road whenever traffic opens up in front of them. They will usually try to charge higher prices for foreigners, so bargain, but they also don’t make much money so don’t get too crazy with it.

What locals mainly use motorbike taxis for are trips down the small sois (roads and alleys) that come off of the city’s bigger roads. Look for a price board at the rank, and agree the fare first for longer or unfamiliar journeys. Thai law says passengers must wear a helmet. In practice, most motorbike taxi drivers won’t have a spare. Ask, but don’t hold your breath. If that’s a deal-breaker, take something else.

Buses (รถเมล์ – rot mae)

The cheapest way to get around Bangkok is on the city’s buses. The network includes Bangkok Mass Transit Authority buses and routes run by private operators. The routes are difficult for even locals to figure out, and a nightmare for tourists. Google Maps can steer you in the right direction, and the BMTA route and fare tool can help, but in general be prepared to get lost and confused if you’re taking the bus in Bangkok.

Fares vary by route, operator, bus type and distance. Some buses are air conditioned and some emphatically are not. Riding the bus in Bangkok can be an interesting experience as a one-off, but unless you are on a really tight budget, buses are more trouble than they’re worth.